How to Create a Multi-Page PDF in Photoshop

Whether you’re creating an infographic, an informative online help file, or any other type of PDF document, it’s useful to know how to create a multi-page PDF if you’re using Photoshop.

Thankfully, the process is very straightforward. There are some requirements that must be met to ensure the presentation appears clearly, but we’ll go over these and the steps necessary to make a proper PDF in Photoshop below.

Creating a Multi-Page PDF in Photoshop

To begin with, you’ll need to create each page of your PDF file individually. Every page should be a separate Photoshop .PSD file.

You can save each file as a .PSD so that you can edit each page separately in the future if needed.

The resolution you choose is very important. The typical A4 print size is a good dimension to use for PDF, so we’ll opt for that in this guide.

If you want to print the PDF, you can use 300 DPI (dots/pixels per inch). The resolution for this would be 2480 pixels x 3508 pixels.

If you want to upload the PDF online, it is advised that you choose a lower resolution to keep the overall file size of the PDF more manageable.

72 DPI is a common choice. For this, the resolution would need to be 595 pixels x 842 pixels.

If you want to add more content to a page, you can increase the pixel height. (Use Alt+Ctrl+C.)

Just make sure you do not increase the width. It’s important the width stays the same on every page, otherwise the layout of your PDF will be impacted.

Once you have created each page at the right resolution, you can follow the steps below to create a multi-page PDF.

  • Step 1: Save each .PSD file in the same folder.
  • Step 2: For easy management, save each page as Page_1, Page_2, etc
  • Step 3: Next, go to File, then Automate, then PDF Presentation
  • Step 4: Click Browse on the new pop-up
  • Step 5: Hold Ctrl and click on each .PSD file you’d like to add
  • Step 6: Click Open

When you are ready, click Save to create the PDF file. You can drag each file up and down in the list to change their position if needed.

Make sure to choose Multi-Page Document under the output options section before clicking save.

You can now choose where to save your PDF file. Finally, you’ll have a number of options for customizing the output of the PDF file. For example, you can use the compression tab to minimize the PDF file size by sacrificing image quality. For now, you can click Save PDF.

Your PDF file will now be created! You can double click the file to open it in your web browser or PDF reader application.

Here is a look at our test file:

Notice how all pages are displayed with the same zoom and layout, despite one page being taller. If you have an issue with some pages not displaying correctly, you must ensure the pixel width of each PSD page file is exactly the same.

If you ever need to edit your PDF, you must edit the PSD for the page you’d like to make changes to. After that, you’ll need to follow the steps listed above once more to re-create the PDF presentation with the newly edited page.


You should now know how to create a multi-page PDF in Photoshop. We hope that this guide has proven to be useful. Have any questions about the process? Lets us know and we’ll be happy to help. Enjoy!

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SATA 3 vs M.2 vs NVMe – Overview and Comparison

There are a variety of different terms for solid state drives these days, the three most popular being SATA 3, M.2, and NVMe.

If you’ve recently looked at purchasing an SSD, chances are you’ve come across these terms, but you may not completely understand the technical differences.

In this article, we’ll be laying out the differences, explaining which is better/worse, and providing details on how the technology for each SSD type works.

The Evolution Of the Solid State Drive

Firstly, let’s talk about the origin of the solid state drive, and why it has been such a popular hardware item for PC builders and laptop manufacturers in recent years.

A typical storage drive used in laptops and PCs is known as a traditional hard drive. These types of drives have moving parts. A hard drive works similarly to an old record player.

There is a moving disk (platter) and a large header that can read data and write off of them as the disk spins.

Typically, the faster the hard drive spins (7200 RPM, 10,000 RPM, etc.), the faster the storage drive can be read. Unfortunately, there is a limit to how fast a hard drive can read the data. There’s also a latency that comes with waiting for the head to physically move. This is where SSDs come in.

SSD stands for solid state drive and it’s a type of storage that does not have moving parts. SSDs instead use semiconductor chips to store and access memory.

An, SSD in particular, has a huge array of these semiconductors that can be charged or uncharged, which the computer will read as a ‘1’ or ‘0’ in binary and convert that to actual files or data viewable on your machine.

What’s interesting about the type of memory used in an SSD is that the cells retain their charged or uncharged state even after shutting down and this is how memory is stored and not forgotten.

A PC or laptop is able to read data many times faster off of an SSD because the flash technology just works that much faster than old mechanical hard drives with moving parts.

More recently, we’ve had a variety of different types of solid state drives, namely SATA 3 and NVMe. These drives use the same semiconductor arrays explained above, but they have different potentials for different reasons.

Let’s take a look at how each solid state storage type differs below.

SATA 3 vs M.2 vs NVMe – What’s the Difference?

As it turns out, the technology used to read and write data off of an SSD is so fast that the limiting factor actually comes down to the method the drive shares data to the PC.

There are two different methods a PC uses to read an SSD: SATA 3 and NVMe.

SATA 3 connections are made by connecting a data cable and a power cable directly into the motherboard and the solid state drive itself.

An NVMe connection, on the other hand, allows a solid state drive to have its data read straight from a PCI-E slot right on the motherboard. The drive draws power directly through the motherboard. More importantly, the NVMe drive will also draw data through the motherboard at a faster rate than SATA 3.

Why, you ask? Simply put, an NVMe can queue more data at once due to having access to more PCI-E lanes.

PCI-E lanes are essentially data lanes on a motherboard. There’s a limited amount, and the different ports and slots on a motherboard are given certain lanes. On a typical newer motherboard, you’ll see slots of various sizes corresponding to the number of PCI-E lanes available (x1, x2, x4, x16, etc).

The end result is that with more PCI-E lanes, and direct PCI-E read/write potential, NVMe drives are typically far faster than SATA SSDs.

However, the performance boost is only really seen for sequential read/write speeds. Or, in simpler terms, for moving large files.

With the true read/write speed potential of NVMe only being reached with larger files, differences may not be that noticeable for gaming and everyday tasks.

So, for boot up time and gaming, NVMe won’t offer much difference. For video editing and photo editing, NVMe drives can offer much better results.

Here is a look at the typical read/write speeds of a hard drive, a SATA 3 SSD and an NVMe SSD for large files.

  • 7200 RPM Hard Drive – average read/write speed of 80-160MB/second
  • SATA 3 SSD – read/write speed up to 550MB/second
  • NVME SSD – read/write speed up to 3500MB/second

What About M.2? Where Does That Come In?

So far, we’ve explained SATA and NVMe. These are two methods, or protocols, used to read and write data. One uses PCI-E (NVMe) and the other doesn’t (SATA).

An M.2 drive is simply a term to describe the physical form factor of a drive. M.2 drives are the slim ones shown below. M.2 drives are not another protocol like NVMe and SATA. In fact, you can get an M.2 drive that uses either SATA or NVMe.

Here is an M.2 drive with a SATA connection:

And here is an M.2 drive with an NVMe connection:

An M.2 drive is not faster just because of its form factor. It’s just usually the case that M.2 drives use the NVMe protocol because they already connect via PCI-E anyway.

If you’re in the market for an NVMe drive, just make sure that the M.2 drive you look at clearly has NVMe in its description or title and not SATA.

Summary – Should You Get SATA 3 or NVMe?

If you’re upgrading from a traditional hard drive, both SATA 3 and NVMe will offer you spectacular improvements. NVMe is typically more expensive than SATA 3, which is a problem considering standard SATA 3 SSDs are already expensive enough.

NVMes really are only useful for those larger file transfers, too, so unless you regularly move large files for photo and video editing, or find a great deal on an NVMe drive, you may as well stick to a standard SATA 3 SSD because you can get a much bigger size for the same price. 

Also, for gaming, both NVMe and SATA 3 will offer very similar boot speeds. They are both so fast that other hardware, such as RAM and CPU performance, ends up being the bottleneck.

Hopefully, this summarizes the difference between SATA 3 and NVMe and makes it clear how M.2 fits into the equation as well.

Below is a quick summary of everything we’ve covered so far.

  • M.2 – A slimmer form factor for storage drives
  • NVMe – A protocol that lets data be read and written via PCI-E
  • SATA 3 – An older protocol that is typically not as fast as NVMe

What are your thoughts on this topic?

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Fastest Way to Scan Large Number of Photos at Home

My father recently decided to start scanning all of our baby and childhood photos using his HP flatbed scanner at home and quickly realized that it would take years to scan all the photos into the computer if he did it one by one. He then looked into buying some more expensive equipment that could scan more photos at a time and faster.

There are quite a few options out there for projects like this that won’t break the bank. However, you’ll still need to be ready to spend anywhere from $200 to $1000 if you really want to scan a large number of photos or documents at home.

You can use an online photo scanning service, which usually requires you to ship your photos to a company, either within the US or outside. The WireCutter already has an in-depth article on which photo scanning service is the best to use, so check that out if you want to go that route. These online services are also useful if you need to do any kind of photo restoration.

Best High-Speed Photo Scanners

The list below is not in any particular order, so look through each before you decide. Again, the emphasis here is on speed and decent quality. You can always get something like a Doxie Q for less than $200, but it’s way slower compared to any of the scanners below.

You only need this kind of power below if you need to scan thousands of photos or thousands of documents. It doesn’t make much sense for a small batch. After I finished scanning all of my photos, I continued using my expensive scanner to scan in all the papers my kids bring back from school.

Fujitsu FI-7160 Color Duplex Scanner

The Fujitsu FI-7160 is a top-of-the-line duplex color scanner that will blast through your photo collection in no time. It’s currently around $880, which is a pretty hefty price tag for a scanner.

It’s got a 4,000 page daily duty cycle and a 80 sheet automatic document feeder. It can scan up to 600 dpi, which is nowhere near the resolution of the photo-oriented scanners mentioned below, but still good enough for most people. The best part of this scanner in my experience is the fact that you can feed it photos of different sizes at one time.

You don’t have to worry about sorting everything out first or anything like that. Just dump the documents into the scanner and scan away. It also does a great job with documents and photos that aren’t perfectly smooth and straight. It can handle bends and crumbled papers exceptionally well, which really comes in handy.

Epson FastFoto FF-640

Another great scanner is the Epson FastFoto FF-640. This scanner claims to be the fastest photo scanner in the world (1 photo per second). Whether that’s true or not really doesn’t matter. It’s super fast and can scan at a high resolution (600 dpi).

The other big pull for this scanner is the fact that it is only $650, which is quite a bit cheaper than the Fujitsu. As long as you are scanning at least 1,500 photos, the Epson is worth the money as it’ll cost about the same sending the photos to an online service.

The software that comes with it is also intuitive to use and easy to set up. The Epson can only handle about 30 5×7 prints in the ADF, but it can handle different sizes at the same time. If you want to scan 8×10’s, you’ll have to do those one at a time, though. The Fujitsu can handle 8×11 and smaller prints all at the same time.

The color accuracy is not as good as you would get from a photo-oriented scanner, but it’s a worthwhile tradeoff if you need to scan a lot of photos fast. Also, the software is simple, but advanced users will find it too limiting. You’ll have to use another app if you want to fine-tune the photos.

Plustek Photo Scanner

If you don’t want to spend that kind of money, a cheaper option is the Plustek Photo Scanner, which comes in at $200. It can scan 4×6 photos in about 2 seconds and 8×10 photos in 5 seconds.

You do have to insert photos one at a time, but it keeps scanning without having to stop after each photo. The resolution is capped at 600 dpi, which is similar to the other scanners. The overall quality and color accuracy aren’t as good as the scanners listed below, but for the price and convenience, it’s not a terrible option.

Best Photo Oriented Scanners

The scanners listed below are geared more towards photo enthusiasts who need absolute color accuracy when scanning photos, slides or film strips. Quality is more important than speed for these scanners.

Epson Perfection V800/V85o Pro Photo Scanner

For those looking for absolute color accuracy and incredible quality and resolution, you best choices are the Epson V800 and Epson V850 Pro, which are $733 and $999, respectively. In addition, these are for those who need to scan slides and film strips.

These go up to a ridiculous 6400 dpi and have a lot of other advanced features to make sure there is minimal distortion when scanning the image. These scanners will also automatically touch up your photos to remove dust and scratches.

Even though they won’t be as fast as the ADF scanners above, these are still fairly quick because there is zero warm up time due to LED lights.

A cheaper option is also the Epson v600, which costs about $210.

Canon CanoScan 9000F MKII

The Canon CanoScan 9000F only costs $170, but packs a lot of features. For film, it maxes out at a super-high 9600 dpi. For everything else, it can go up to 4800 dpi. This scanner also uses LED lights, which means there is no warm up time. You can keep scanning back to back without stopping.

For under $200, it’s the cheapest, yet highest quality scanner out there. It has a Fare Level 3 feature which can remove scratches and dust, along with other enhancements, such as color restoration.

Hopefully, this gives you a good idea of the range and quality that you can get from different scanners on the market. If you want better photo quality, you’ll have to sacrifice speed. However, if you care more about speed, you have a couple of cheap options that will give you good quality results too. Enjoy!

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How to Store All Your Photos and Videos in the Cloud

Recently, I had some friends over and they were telling me about how they store all of their photos and videos on their computer or phone and don’t even make regular local backups to USB disks or external hard drives. This is definitely risky, which is why I consider it essential to keep a set of all your pictures and videos online in the cloud.

Uploading photos to the cloud has a couple of advantages over storing them all locally:

1. You can easily share the albums with others

2. You can access the photos and videos at any time and usually on other devices as long as you have an Internet connection

3. You have a backup of all your photos in case something happens to your local copy

I always have a local copy of my pictures and then have several copies stored in the cloud. Depending on what services you currently use, the best solution may be different for different people. In this article, I’ll try to cover some of the main ways to store your photos and videos in the cloud.

store photos in cloud

Before we get into details, I wanted to talk about the source for all these photos and videos. In my case, there are basically three ways I take photos:

1. From my smartphone

2. From my digital SLR camera

3. From my digital point-and-shoot camera

Photos and Videos from Smartphones

Storing photos and videos you take from a smartphone in the cloud is pretty straight-forward and there are a lot of options. For Android or iOS devices, you can use a variety of apps or built-in features to upload your photos and videos to the cloud, usually automatically.

Apple has iCloud Photo Library and it works fairly well most of the time. I’ve been using it for several years now and haven’t run into any major issues. All you have to do is purchase some extra iCloud storage and your media will be uploaded automatically once the feature is enabled.

For non-Apple users, there are quite a few options. The most popular choices here are Google Photos, Dropbox, OneDrive or Flickr. The Google Photos app is my favorite and I use it in addition to purchasing iCloud storage.

If you don’t use Google Photos or Picasa , etc., you can also use Dropbox. Dropbox is a service that basically lets you easily “drop” files into a bucket that is then available on any device or computer you have Dropbox installed on. And Dropbox has an app for every platform out there, including Linux, Blackberry, Kindle Fire, etc.

Dropbox also has an automatic upload feature called Camera Upload, which does the exact same thing as the Google Photos app. Any picture you take will be automatically uploaded to your Dropbox account when you open the app. OneDrive also works in the same way.

So these apps can basically take care of all your photos from any smartphone you own. They work on tablets, smartphones, desktops and on many other devices too.

If you install the desktop program on your Mac or PC, it will then automatically sync all those photos and videos to the computer too, so you have an extra backup on your hard drive just in case.

There are other apps like Facebook, but it doesn’t support automatic uploading of photos and videos. Still, I do upload photos to Facebook all the time, but I use Google Photos and Dropbox to store all my photos whereas I upload only a few good ones to Facebook. Facebook is not setup to be used as a backup of all your photos and videos.

Photos and Videos from Digital Cameras

Getting photos from your digital camera to the cloud is a little different, but not very complicated either. You pretty much have all the same options as mentioned above. The only issue with SLRs is that the files can be huge, especially for things like 4K video.

If you have a high-speed Internet connection that isn’t metered, then you can just drop all the files into one of your cloud synced folders and everything will be uploaded. If you are in the Apple ecosystem, you will need to use the Photos app in OS X to import the media into your iCloud Photo Library. However, large video files will quickly eat up your storage space.

The best option for large RAW images and super high definition video is external or network storage that is attached locally. I previously wrote about setting up your own cloud storage using a NAS device. With this setup, you don’t have to upload anything, but you can access your media from anywhere.

Personally, I have found that using some of these services in combination works out best. On my phone, I use Google Photos and iCloud Photo Library to upload my photos and videos.

For RAW images and 4K footage from my digital cameras, I normally backup to a large external hard drive and backup to my Synology NAS device. However, both of these copies are local and I would lose everything if the house burned down. To counter that, I setup an Amazon AWS account and backed up the really huge files to Amazon Glacier, which is really cheap. I have over 2 TB of data stored there and only pay like $10 a month. It’s worth it for me.

The other useful feature of a service like Amazon Glacier is that you can save several terabytes of data onto an external hard drive and ship it to Amazon. They will copy the data to their server locally, which prevents you from having to upload all that data over your home Internet connection.

Overall, it’s a good idea to store your photos and videos in the cloud along with having a local backup copy. If you still are confused about something or need any other help, feel free to post a comment and I’ll try to help. Enjoy!

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How to Check Your Google and Facebook Connected Apps

Are you a regular or robust user of Google tools? Have you used your Google account to sign into third party apps? Do you often take quizzes sent by friends on Facebook? Or, as with Google, have you used your Facebook account to log in to third party apps or websites?

Last, are you alarmed by the recent news about the social media companies in privacy breaches? Apart from rigorous password hygiene and mandatory two factor authentication or simply jettisoning these companies entirely, you can take another step to greater security by periodically policing the apps/modules/websites that you’ve allowed to access your Google and Facebook accounts.

Below, we show you how to review, check, calibrate, and remove connected apps from your Google account and Facebook accounts.

Google Connected Apps

Assume that from time to time, you use your Google account to sign into third party apps. Even if you can’t recall doing this, a lot of times you won’t even realize you are giving an app access to your Google account.

Here is Google’s guidance:

Remove Third Party Access

Now, let us explore how to monitor and remove these Google connected apps. Sign in with your Google Account using a web browser.

At the top right of the screen, you’ll see your profile photo.  Click on it, and then click on My Account.

This My Account page includes several modules such as security, privacy, and preferences; it is well worth reviewing, especially the Security Checkup wizard.

For purpose of this article, look down along the left under Sign-in & Security and select Apps with account access.

On the Apps with account access page, click on Manage Apps to get a full list of connected apps.

Notice how Google groups the connected apps, displaying first the 3rd party apps that have access to your account. Below these 3rd party apps, you’ll see a list of apps that are trusted by Google that have access.

Now check these lists for apps that are unfamiliar or that you no longer use. Click on one of the apps. Here you will see details, including when the app was authorized and what level of access it has. To remove it, click on Remove Access.

Google then displays a pop up explaining that you are removing the apps access to your account and to use this app or service again, you will need to grant access. Click OK, and Google removes the apps access and removes it from the list.

Continue to remove access for all apps you do not actively use.  And remember that if you need to use a third party or Google app again that you’ve removed, you simply have to authorize it again.

Facebook Connected Apps

Many website logins ask new users to sign in using Facebook. Also, if you have used the many popular shared game and quiz apps on Facebook, these apps also access your personal information. Facebook is prominent in the news now because of how this data is being misused. In response, Facebook may soon be simplifying the privacy settings. But for now, here is the current, not so easy, way to check and remove these Facebook connected apps.

Once logged into Facebook, pull down the toggle/arrow at the right top of the Facebook screen. This will expose your Facebook account and other features.  Near the bottom of this list, choose Settings.

On Facebook General Account Settings page, scroll down and select Apps and Websites in the left-hand menu.

The next page shows the Facebook applications that have been given account access, via the ways discussed above.  These range from fun apps like Words with Friends to automating integrations like If This Then That (IFTTT), and productivity apps like Hootsuite.

You may easily remove the app entirely by checking the box to the right and selecting Remove as shown above.

If you select one or more apps and click remove, you’ll see another dialog box. Here, notice the additional checkbox option referring to previous activity.  Consider whether to instruct Facebook to also delete prior posts made using the app.  So, for example, if you use IFTTT to automatically post to Facebook any entries posted on Blogger, you may still want the previous posts to remain.

Several other important notes here. Once removed, the app or website will no longer have access to your information, yet they may still retain previously shared information. If the app or website has your email address, you may certainly “unsubscribe” to stop future emails, but it will be necessary to contact the app or website developers directly to ask what if any information of yours they continue to maintain.

Facebook makes it easy for users to contact app developers, by selecting “Report/Contact” in the bottom right when you click on the app.  Thus, if you are concerned, you may want to first use this contact tool before removing the app.

Edit Facebook App Privacy Settings

Note too that Facebook allows users to specify the exposure that each connected app is allowed. So even after removing apps entirely, consider visiting and changing the privacy settings for each app that remains.  Here’s how.

For one of the apps, click on View and edit.

First, check App visibility, meaning who on Facebook will be able to see that you use this app.  For this visibility, you can pick from Public, Friends, Friends except acquaintances, Only Me or Custom.

Even more important, check the personal information provided to the app. For many apps, the public profile may be required, but other info such as your list of Facebook friends, birthday, hometown, and your email address can be deselected. Also, most of the time, there is no need for the app to access your pages or manage your business.

So trim the access for each app or remove them entirely. Upon removal, you will no longer see this app or website in your Facebook connected apps list.

Congrats on bringing some small level of privacy control to the continuing privacy battles we all face when using social media sites. Please let us know of any comments or questions. Enjoy!

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